Norway – cold, wet, foggy, uncomfortable, mosquitos and very expensive. These were just some of my thoughts prior to contacting IPA Norway! But upon landing in Tromso on 25 June 2022 I was warmly welcomed by IPA member Anne who invited me into her home. The hospitality and kindness was overwhelming. Difficulties in rescheduling my cycle ride due to unplanned strike action at the airport evaporated and on Day 3 I was happily cycling towards Nordkapp, well rested and full of food and cheer!
My crazy holiday adventure was to cycle from Nordkapp through the Norwegian Fjords to Bergen, some 2,500 - 2,700km or thereabouts. The journey would take around 30 days and follow loosely the Eurovelo 1 bicycle route. Before departure, I shared my plans with Gunnar Baardsen who created a Whats App group introducing me to his IPA contacts along the west coast. My companion for the journey would be ‘SWOOP’ the IPA UK section mascot who was very keen to meet IPA Norway members.
Basked in glorious sunshine and never-ending daylight I pedalled forth. With new travel plans I messaged ahead to Alta for advice on ferries / camping opportunities and to see if anyone might be free for a beer. Within two hours Harald arrived in his police van, jumped out and presented me with a cold bottle of coca-cola and some water. How fabulous! I was given good directions for the remaining 40km to Alta Police Station where I was afforded a hot shower, a superb tour of the police station and a wonderful evening chatting to the duty police team and eating pizza and chocolate cake. Harald welcomed me into his home for the night and we shared a fabulous breakfast with his wife in the morning. Fortified with some delicious home-made pastries and a huge chocolate bar, I was once more cycling north feeling fresh and recharged.
In less than a week I arrived with my two new German cycling companions at Nordkapp where we witnessed the mid-night sun on the most glorious of summer nights. A breath-taking moment in my life. Twenty-four hours later I was floating my way back to Tromso on the Hurtigrutn ferry, experiencing the Fjords in a totally new and exotic way. Once again IPA Norway welcomed me, this time Lars Meland’s assistance of a night’s accommodation in Tromso allowing me the opportunity of a good night’s sleep as well as doing some laundry and preparing my equipment and bicycle for the journey south.
The following days I experienced the most beautiful cycling ever. With the unusually delightful warm weather I cycled through the days and nights, stunning views and unforgettable scenery. But two weeks into my journey I encountered real Norwegian weather in the Lofoton Islands. Strong winds, heavy persistent rain and cold air blasted me for the next 150km. I was so glad to meet IPA member Thorben, a patrol officer from Bodo who gave me an opportunity for a hot shower at the police station and a chance to dry off and warm up. I thoroughly enjoyed Thorben’s company and hospitality. I was introduced to Pelle the famous police car and we enjoyed a beer and a tasty Sushi buffet in the evening. IPA Norway kindly arranged a place for me to stay the night instead of my cold wet tent, I was very grateful. Despite Thorben being incredibly busy at work and at home, he kindly brought me a ‘mobile’ breakfast in the morning and drove me a few kilometres south to get me started again on my journey to Trondheim and Bergen. Thank you.
Throughout the last decade I have been very fortunate to cycle a great many European countries and the southern States of America. My preference is to travel alone, carrying my tent, clothing and all my food and equipment needed to be self-sufficient. Exploring the world by bicycle I highly recommend to anyone in whatever way suits you. The extraordinary people one meets, the cultures and experiences one learns about are quite unforgettable. Norway was not disappointing me one bit!
And so arriving in to Trondheim I was glad to meet Marta, a police prosecutor. We instantly connected and we enjoyed a wonderful few hours chatting and learning about each others police work in addition to the fun of Marta learning to ride her motorbike. I was treated to a Sushi buffet which was perfect for recharging my batteries after some 1,800km. With another 800-900km to Bergen, I made a diversion further west to Kristiansund thanks to Sigvart encouraging me to experience the famous ‘Atlantic road’ (which I had never heard of)! Sage advice about the dangerous undersea tunnels for bicycles left me with a dilemma which Sigvart quickly solved involving a bike rack on his car. At the pre-arranged location Sigvart kindly collected me (and unexpectedly another stranded lady French cyclist), escorting us safely through the dangerous tunnels. Once again an IPA Norwegian home was opened-up for me, Sigvart generously treating me to a delicious traditional dinner at a local restaurant. In the morning Sigvart once again took me through the undersea tunnels to my starting place which was the Atlantic Road.
Like any British person appreciates, the weather is always a talking point and so the changeable Norwegian weather conditions in Norway made for some tough cycling over the coming days. The wind blasted into my face constantly, my lips blue from the cold and my hair dancing in the wind. Luckily I’d brought some winter clothing and so donned up in my winter cycling outfit I pedalled hard to keep warm. It was exhausting. The chilly nights in the tent were bearable with layers of clothing, a warm feathered sleeping bag and a woolly hat. The adventure in the great outdoors was fantastic. My camping was always in the wilderness and never a campsite, away from roads, buildings and tourists. Just me alone in the Norwegian forests and Fjords.
As with every journey there is an end. And so with great delight I sloshed into Bergen with the rain falling heavily. For the first time in Norway I treated myself to a hotel room for my last two nights. A final IPA contact Oystein Roksvag met me for coffee and cake. What a fantastic way to end my holiday and what a terrific adventure Norway was.
For me, the American travel writer Tim Cahill summed up my 30 day odyssey in Norway – ‘A journey is best measured in friends, rather than miles’. Thank you IPA Norway. Thank you friends. I hope to welcome you all to London UK very soon.
Alex Williams, 9 Region, London North (of the Thames) and London Reception Officer
